Have you ever heard of the Christian boy from Bosnia who grew to rule the Muslim world?
Have you ever heard of the Christian boy from Bosnia who grew to rule the Muslim world?
âGo to Mangalia, which is the Mecca of the wandering poor people!â
I had expected many things from the little Esmahan Sultan Mosque in Mangalia, in South-East Romania, but a comparison to Islamâs holiest city was not one of them.
âThe Esmahan Sultan Mosque was built in 1573 âŠÂ in memory of Solyman II, one of the greatest rulers of the Ottoman Empire of that timeâŠâ the sign continued. This was clearly no âofficialâ tourist sign, the year 1573 was written in blue over the original and it had the wrong Suleiman. Suleiman II came to the throne in 1643 â a whole 70 years after the mosque wouldâve been built.
None of this bothered me much, I had arrived in search of Romaniaâs forgotten Islamic history expecting more questions than answers, and whilst the brown sign at the entrance posed many the questions, my new friend Lutfi was part of the answer.
âMoscheeea! Gooood!”
His back slightly bent with age, Lutfi, stood grinning at me, the sun glinting off his large brown-tint lenses. He wore a flat cap and neatly creased beige trousers with a short sleeve shirt. The picture of a Mediterranean elder. All he was missing was a checkers set and a park bench.Lutfi was a Romanian-Turk; a real life Ottoman descendant. He was the Muslim story I had been looking for.
Earlier we had stood side by side for dhur (midday) prayer inside the Esmehan, Lutfiâs local. Islam was very much alive in Romania.
In the mosqueâs garden, hidden among overgrown foliage, a dozen or so slim tombstones stood in varying stages of decay, topped by stone Ottoman headdresses of differing rank. Many had clearly legible Arabic and Persian engravings. Some, ravaged by time, had fallen away and been neatly piled by the mosque doorway.
The restoration work was apparently the private undertaking of a wealthy businessman from Turkey called Seyyid Ismail Hakki Bey, the mosqueâs Imam told me in his limited English. It was Seyyid who had authorised the sign at the front.
âDuring the 16th century, the princess Esma, daughter of Selim II and wife of the High Vizier Sokollu-Mehmet Pasha, took refuge in Mangalia âŠâ it continued.
Sokollu had been the most powerful Grand Vizier in Ottoman history, starting his tenor under Suleiman the Magnificent, when the empire was at itâs height. Sokolluâs story and reign as Grand Vizier makes for one of the empireâs most intriguing chapters.
Born âBajicaâ to a Christian Serb shepherd in the tiny little village of Sokolovici (lu in Turkish means âfromâ) in modern day Bosnia. Sokollu was taken from his family aged 10 by the Ottomans as part of the devsirme system, and trained as an elite Janissery soldier.
Converted to Islam, over the next 50 years, Sokollu rose steadily through the military ranks before, just short of his 60th birthday, Sultan Suleiman appointed him Grand Vizier in 1565, making him the second most powerful person on the planet.
A year later, the Sultan died on a military campaign with Sokollu by his side. The Grand Vizier immediately took hold of the empireâs reins to oversee the smooth ascension of Suleimanâs son Selim II to the imperial throne.
Selim was very different to his father. Softened by palace life, he had no interest in ruling the world or heading out on military campaigns.
He was the âplayboyâ Sultan, and preferred to stay at the palace and indulge instead in orgies and debauchery. Having seen the trust his father had placed in the Grand Vizier, Selim II saw no reason to stop the elderly statesman continuing to make the key decisions.
Thus began a 13 year period during which most historians believe it was Sokollu that ran the Ottoman empire, as the de facto ruler to soft, uninterested Sultans.
The Christian boy from Bosnia had grown up to rule the Muslim world. Not everyone liked this arrangement, least of all the Ottoman Sultanas, whose power was on the rise towards the end of this period, especially after Selim II was succeeded by his son Murad III, a handover again overseen by Sokollu, who remained Grand Vizier.
Some believe the Sultanaâs were behind Sokolluâs eventual murder four years later at the hands of a âmadâ dervish in October of 1579. What is certain is his death signalled the dawn of the period known as the Sultanate of Women, when Ottoman power was firmly in the hands of the imperial women, namely the mothers of the Sultans.
As I stood alone in the mid-afternoon sun staring at the cartoon-like stone turbans, I wondered if Sokollu had indeed sought refuge here in Mangalia, as Seyyidâs sign claimed. If he had, it would surely have been during those latter years when he knew the daggers were out for him.
I imagined a sad, disillusioned old man sitting in the mosque, far from the halls of power, and even further from the village of his birth, near which he had recently had a bridge built by his good friend the brilliant architect Mimar Sinan â like him, the product of devsirme.
Sokollu wouldâve been about Lutfiâs age by then.
There is no Kaaba or Mecca in Mangalia, there isnât even a stunning Islamic monument. Thereâs just a whitewashed old mosque with a terracotta roof that has the most fabulous story to tell.